Suisun Valley has long since been considered a sleepy Napa neighbor. Some liked it that way, and others wanted to rise above that quiet, sleepy image and promote their Valley and their wines with gusto! Now with partnerships within the community and the addition of new wines to the region, Suisun Valley is not so sleepy anymore.
Suisun Valley neighbors Napa (County and wine region) to the south. Most would argue that although the county line separates us, Mother Nature does not see the county line therefore yielding similar and sometimes superior grapes than our neighbor. Although Suisun Valley wines have been around for many years, coordinated marketing efforts in the last 10 years have raised some interest in the region. Many visitors stay in Fairfield and make their way up to Napa to wine taste, but now hotels and area attractions have been aggressively promoting their own wine region as a great option without the drive. “Uniquely funded to sustain agriculture in Suisun Valley the Suisun Valley Fund provided the capacity for wineries and farm stands throughout the valley to develop solid visitor information and directional signage programs that assist visitors to make their way from one place to the next. Farm direct sales of wines, fruits, vegetable offerings and even extra virgin olive oil products delight visitors and sustain the ag economy” explains Roger King, owner of King Andrews Vineyard and also Chairman of the Suisun Valley Vintners’ and Growers’ Association. Wineries in the region have started tracking referrals from area hotels and attractions such as Jelly Belly, and are seeing significant impact to the traffic in their tasting rooms.
Jelly Belly has embraced this emergence by partnering directly with some of the Suisun Valley wineries. The experience they offer is quite inviting and is proving to be very successful. Picture this…quiet and relaxing jazz music plays in the background as you sip a glass of wine, nibble premium chocolates and converse with friends. You wouldn’t guess it, but this scene can be found at the Jelly Belly Visitor Center. Tucked away in the upstairs Very Cherry Room, guests 21 and older are invited to try five flights of locally produced Suisun Valley wines paired with handmade chocolates from the Jelly Belly Store and Chocolate Shoppe all complete with a special edition wine glass.
The experience starts with a Sauvignon Blanc from Wooden Valley, crisp and fragrant, it’s paired with a Milk Chocolate Almond Cluster for a perfectly balanced sensation. Then the Three Clone Chardonnay from Ledgewood Creek paired with a Sunkist Dark Chocolate Orange Stick, the orange brings out the hints of honey in the Chardonnay while the dark chocolate complements the flavor. Next a Cabernet Sauvignon from Wooden Valley is paired with a creamy Dark Chocolate Truffle, the warm richness of the chocolate balances the Cabernet. Then move to a classic and smooth Merlot paired with a Dark Chocolate Caramel Truffle that brings out the hints of sweetness and warmth in the wine. End with a Riesling and a decadent Sunkist Dark Chocolate Raspberry Stick for a dessert-like finish to the tasting.
“The Chocolate and Wine Experience has been a huge success because it gives adults something fun to do when they visit Jelly Belly. We’re introducing them not only to the delicious chocolates that we make in our Chocolate Shoppe and inside the Jelly Belly factory, but also to wines from the Suisun Valley. There are a lot of wonderful wines in this region, and we’ve selected the ones that pair well with the gourmet chocolates we create right here at Jelly Belly.” States John Jamison, Vice President of Retail Operations at Jelly Belly Candy Company.
With so many exciting things buzzing around the Suisun Valley, it’s no surprise others want to come join the fun. Napa Valley’s world famous Caymus Vineyards recently announced they have acquired 178 acres in Fairfield located in the Suisun Valley to build a winery and distillery complete with tasting room and event center where they will be able to host weddings, corporate gatherings and other industry events. This new facility, once complete, will be Suisun Valley’s largest winery.
Caymus is not the only new winemaker in town…Suisun Valley also welcomes a new Suisun Valley winery named GrapeHeary Vineyards. Ramzi and Isabel Deeik, residents of Napa, were interested in winemaking and drove between Napa and Suisun Valley when they came across a 40 acre lot on Suisun Valley Road that they later purchased and planted. The name GrapeHeart was chosen because it gets to the “heart” of the matter for them. Ramzi Deeik is a heart surgeon and brought that interest in the heart to winemaking efforts. GrapeHeart donates part of its proceeds to the Sister to Sister Foundation, a nonprofit group that works to prevent heart disease in women. So how are the wines? Their first year of wine production was in 2010 and was release this year and has already won several awards. The Cabernet based blend, The Beat, won Best of Solano award at the North Coast Wine Challenge and Best of Class and Gold at the International Women’s Wine Competition. The Cabernet Sauvignon won Silver at the U.S. National Wine Competition.
“We chose Rustic Wine Country as our position to best express the unique character the valley still holds as one of the least impacted agricultural wine valley’s in the North Coast. A place where winemakers and grape growers can be found in their own tasting rooms, with little pretense – just some pretty darn good wine,” states Roger King. Darn good wine, enough said. Come explore…Rustic Suisun Valley.
Anand Patel is the President/CEO of the Fairfield Conference & Visitors Bureau, the official destination marketing organization for Fairfield, California.–
It’s a popular question, “How many wineries are there in the Napa Valley?” I confess I don’t know the answer, nor do I really care to know. All I know is there are enough wineries in the Napa Valley that, despite having been a lifelong resident of this fabulous Bay Area region, I am constantly discovering new ones. Such was the case when a friend asked me to come visit her at her new place of employment: Pestoni’s Family, Rutherford Grove.
My job brings me to some of the best wineries—not just in Napa County, but in Northern California. Because of this, I find it hard to have favorites, but Rutherford Grove quickly rose very high on my list—not because of their location and grounds (despits it being extremely beautiful), nor because of their wine (though I can heartily recommend them). Instead, it was the history and friendliness of the staff and how they appear to work in harmony together that made this place a fast favorite.
“The history of the winery is what makes this a ‘must’ stop on the wine-tasting trail for anyone,” says Alejandro Alfaro, Winemaker for Rutherford Grove. “The Pestoni family is old Napa Valley and is hugely respected,” he continues.
“I’ve known the family since I was born, this is a true family winery, very comfortable and relaxed,” Sarah Bertoli, a 7-year tasting room employee interjects. “The Pestonis care about the land and the valley and the people that are living and working here.”
Without knowing the Pestonis, I would have to agree, since everyone I have met through the winery seems friendly and outgoing. The tasting room itself is also very comfortable with a sitting area and a fireplace as well as a fishpond right at the front doors…very soothing.
Ben (my Blue Merle Australian Shepherd) and I felt immediately comfortable since Rutherford Grove is dog friendly. As soon as we walked in, a group of tourists globbed onto Ben and I almost didn’t see him for at least an hour! I was greeted with hellos all around and was waved to the counter, where there was much love going around.
Sarah and the other tasting room employees were keeping the guests busy with their wine tasting, but they had enough time to make sure I had settled in with my wine glass and knew the lay of the land. I must admit I have passed the Pestoni Family Rutherford Grove Winery sign for years and never had I ventured into the long, narrow, flag-framed driveway. I think because of the way the tasting room is situated I felt that it was just vineyards for a larger winery—silly me!
In 1892 Albino Pestoni, his wife Maria and their four sons, after having immigrated to America ten years earlier, planted their first vineyard and built a hand-hewn redwood winery. It was deemed Bonded Winery 935 and became very popular with the other Swiss Italians in the Bay Area.
Albino’s son, Henry Pestoni, followed in his dad’s footsteps and, after marrying Lena Domingos, whose family vineyard was on the western slope of Howell Mountain, started a vineyard management crew with her brothers.
In 1923, Lena and Henry bought what is known today as the Pestoni Ranch on Whitehall Lane, where they continued to farm grapes and make wine, sherry and bootleg brandy. In 1963 Henry and Lena’s sons, Bob and Marvin, created the disposal service for the upper Napa Valley. During this time Bob and his wife, Sylvia, also grew grapes for sale.
When a small winery on Highway 29 came up for sale that would gain them access for their disposal company, this brought back memories of Bob’s childhood and his grandfather’s legacy, thus Rutherford Grove Winery was created.
The entrance to Rutherford Grove Winery and Bob Pestoni share a common trait: Subtle but very prominent. Bob has continued his drive for making the best wine without compromising his family’s work ethics.
One of the things Bob and Sylvia did a few years ago is to reach out and hire winemaker Alejandro Alfaro. Alfaro came with an impressive resume: 20 years of experience at various wineries including, but not limited to, Hess Collection, Quixote, Tierra Roja, Metamorphosis, old Quail Ridge (now Alpha Omega).
“Rutherford will always be successful because they have great vineyards and appellations and that’s the start of great wine!” Alfaro said with enthusiasm. “We have great consistency in the vines which transfers to the wines.” Alejandro sat me down and had me start tasting the wines that he so proudly puts his hard work into.
Rutherford Grove Estate Sauvignon Blanc
This wine has wonderful fruit intensity and truly represents the characteristics of the varietal. Guava, grapefruit and pineapple are the flavors and aromas that make this wine one of their best sellers, according to Alfaro.
Pestoni Family Estate Reserve Merlot
This Reserve Merlot is produced from their Howell Mountain Estate Vineyard. Aromas of cedar, tobacco and freshly baked Christmas cake are what will first hit you, but there are also flavors of ripe plum, blackberries, black cherries and spice backing it up. This wine has a long and complex finish. This Merlot won a Gold medal from the 2012 San Francisco Chronicle Wine Competition.
Rutherford Grove Estate Merlot
This is 100% Merlot completely and exclusively from their Estate Vineyard, located east of the winery in the heart of the Rutherford Appellation. The colors are rich with blackberries, cherries and spice, and toasty French oak greeting the taster. This wine’s flavors mimic the aromas and structure somewhat akin to a Rutherford cabernet, but with the roundness of a Merlot. The long finish ends with bright fruit dancing on the tongue.
Rutherford Grove Petite Sirah
This wine is produced with grapes from the St. Helena Appellation that occupies a perfect situation for Petite Sirah. Deep black and purple hues are what you’ll see in your glass with rich aromas and flavors of toasty vanilla, plum, boysenberry and hints of roasted game.
Rutherford Grove Estate Sangiovese
This wine started out as an experiment and is now one of their featured wines. These grapes come from the vineyard in front of the winery, which has created a fabulous varietal. Violets, black cherry and ripe plums await you as you breathe in this wine. A hint of black licorice and toasty vanilla balances the dark, fruity nose. A great drinking wine to pair with food or to drink alone!
Quackenbush Mountain Zinfandel
The vines that create this wine are all heirloom selections of Zinfandel and Petite Sirah and are planted with some of the oldest existing plantings in California. Albino Pestino and some other great uncles made their robust wines with these types of grapes – one of the blocks even originates from Uncle Fred’s old ranch. The 2009 vintage opens with aromas of raspberry and a hint of cinnamon. It enters the palate with nicely balanced dark berry earth tones complimented with a velvety finish.
Pestoni Family Estate Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon
The 2008 Estate Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon is produced from the Howell Mountain Estate Vineyard, challenging conditions but worth the extra effort, since it produces wines with great flavor, intensity and aging properties. Dark chocolate, vanilla and sweet blackberry meld together, offering a luscious aroma. Dried cherries, currants and black fruits compliment the toasty vanilla notes in the mouth. A long and full finish awaits the drinker.
Rutherford Grove Estate Cabernet Sauvignon
This Estate Cabernet is a blend of two small estate vineyards on either side of Highway 29. Wines of the Rutherford Appellation display the “Rutherford Dust” characteristic that make them distinctive from other Cabernet Sauvignons grown in other areas and setting them apart as some of the best in the world. Aromas of blackberry, dark cherry and toasted vanilla greet you. This fruit is mature, and the balance is refined with great complexity in its dusty fruit and integrated oak flavors. Alejandro says that you can drink this straight through 2020!
Quite a list of wines! There is nothing boring here and something for everyone. I have to say I am a red wine drinker so I was in heaven, but as always I have my favorites. I was lucky enough to attend the Annual Corn Roasting event that they have been hosting for 32 years this past August and I was drinking the Quackenbush Zinfandel and Rutherford Cabernet, which I liked very much. A couple weeks later, I had a chance to taste Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon and it quickly became my favorite. (Of course this was most expensive, why is it that I can always do that!)
Before I headed out of the winery from my tasting, I was able to meet and ask a few questions of Bob Pestoni himself. Here are a couple of insights from Bob:
LH: What is the best thing about owning a winery?
BP: Being able to share a great bottle of wine that has been produced from your own vineyard and shared with friends and family, neighbors and people who are interested in wine coming from family-owned and produced wineries.
LH: What is the worst?
BP: Worst, finding out that urbanization has out priced our lands in the Valley and changed agriculture as we know it today.
LH: The best story about the last 20 years?
BP: The continued support of our agriculture industry in the Valley.
LH: What would you say or recommend to someone who says they haven’t found a wine they liked?
BP: Obviously, you have not been to my winery yet! Keep trying, you will find the one that fits you just right.
For a fun and personal tasting be sure to stop at the winery, located at 1673 St. Helena Highway, or call them to schedule a private tasting, or even an event at the winery: 707-963-0544. You can also email them at info@rutherfordgrove.com and be sure to tell them that Local Happenings Magazine sent you!
Deanna Baillie and Ben, her Australian Shepherd, love following the road less traveled. Wineries are personal favorites for the obvious! Keep up with them on their blog at localhappeningsmagazine.com and the Local Happenings Magazine Facebook Page.
I have always been fascinated with the history and architecture of the ages in Europe. I read many stories as a teenager and young adult that would keep my overactive imagination alive with visions and thoughts of what the historic castles looked like or what it would be like to live in one. I always felt that I was alone in my level of fascination. Boy was I wrong.
I remember reading many years ago of Dario Sattui’s dream of building a castle on hillside property in Calistoga. Dario was, of course, famous already for his V. Sattui Winery in St. Helena and this, according to the article, was a passion or obsession of his. He has gone beyond the borders of sanity, some would say, to bring his vision to reality. I, of course, am in love with his passion since I too believe in going to the borders of sanity to live true to one’s self.
As I reread Dario’s quest to bring a little Italy to his beloved Napa Valley I was once again struck by the drive of this man and how he must tackle everything he does in life. He forged ahead with his quest and never looked back at the expense of his personal and business life. So, now because of one man’s unwillingness to compromise, everyone gets a chance to come view a little piece of Europe in the Napa Valley.
Castello di Amorosa or, as it is fondly called, “The Castle”, stands out along the backdrop of the Calistoga hillsides like a jutting fortress from medieval times. Almost twenty years ago when Dario Sattui bought the 127 acre piece of property, there was a stream, a lake, a forest and a Victorian house and not even a dream of what it was to become. When Sattui bought it, he had no intention of putting a winery on it, it was merely going to be his dream home and the thought of planting historic vines wasn’t on his mind. Having already bought ancient property in Italy and after he visited Patriarch Cellars in Burgundy, France, that thought changed. Patriarch Cellars contained over seven acres of underground cellars and rooms and is over 200 years old; Sattui was in heaven!
Over the next several years he traveled extensively in Italy finding masons and builders that could help him realize his dream. He also bought properties that he is currently refurbishing and expanding other passions. After fifteen years of research and, I am sure, some tireless travel and some anguish, Dario was ready to start building his castle.
At this point I would like to mention that Castello di Amorosa was intended originally to be an 8,500 square foot winery; it is 121,000 square feet.
Though Dario almost lost everything, he kept building. Loans from banks and his other winery held everything together until they could finally open on April 7, 2007. Without knowing how the wines or the castle would be received, he, and I am sure his backers, worried. It ended up being needless though since the castle has proven to be quite the success with tourists and residents alike.
The wines of Castello di Amorosa are quite extensive. Red, white, sweet, rose, reserve and even non-alcoholic wines are on the lists. On our tour we decided to try the reserve wines but they have many different tours and packages you can try.
With 14 Tasting Rooms at the castle, I wasn’t sure where I would end up but I was escorted to their Club Room, fondly called Il Passito Reserve Room. Just getting to the Tasting Room is an adventure and you can see that a tour is a must!
We were introduced to our official “Reserve Room” host, Patrick Gallagher, and immediately felt at home when he made sure that Ben had a place at the table. (The Castle is dog-friendly, much to Bens and my surprise.) Patrick made sure that he felt comfortable with what wine I liked and what I would like to taste during my adventure here. I have to admit; sometimes if there is a huge wine menu I get discombobulated with indecision. Since I am not a white wine drinker, I brought a white wine proxy with me. Patrick made sure I felt right at home with my choices, but he did tell me that he was going to have me at least smell the whites.
Pinot Grigio
His first pour was Pinot Grigio, which I normally do not drink. I decided to go outside my comfort zone and try the whites. The Pinot Grigio was light, crisp and oddly refreshing. I haven’t ever consumed Pinot Grigio so I am not sure if I would like other Pinot Grigios, but I would definitely have this one on a hot summer day sitting on a patio.
Official Tasting notes: A crisp, dry white wine made in the Italian style with a fragrance of aromatic herbs and a hint of mineral and earth in the nose.
Chardonnay, Napa Valley
The second pour was a Napa Valley Chardonnay. Once again, I am not a Chardonnay wine drinker so I had my proxy try this wine. Pat’s suggestion that this Chardonnay was lighter than regular ones, not buttery and oaky like other Chardonnays did make me a little curious so once again I jumped in. Their Napa Valley Chardonnay was also more refreshing than I would have thought. Once again I found myself saying that I could see myself having a glass of this on a hot summer day at a BBQ.
Official Tasting notes: This pale, straw-colored wine shows a toasty oak and buttery bouquet opening up to aromas of ripe citrus, pear and grapefruit.
Pinot Bianco
I now found myself getting a little comfortable with the idea and thought that I would be drinking some white wines. I found myself listening to what another group at a larger table was saying about this wine. Everyone seemed impressed with this wine so I jumped right in with my nose first. I really liked the smell of this wine, but this would not be my first choice if I were to change and buy a bottle of white wine. I liked the crispness of the other two wines a lot more.
Official Tasting notes: Medium, straw-yellow color with an aroma of almonds, bananas and apricot.
Gewurztraminer
The description of this wine intrigued me. Spicy and full bodied, in a white wine? Once again I was quite surprised by this wine and would have to say that if offered, I would have a glass of this.
Official Tasting notes: A drier, spicy white wine known for its exotic aromas of cinnamon and cloves, lychee and perfumed rose petals; full-bodied in texture with prominent spicy flavors.
Il Brigante – “The Thief”
The name of this wine made me want to name this my favorite. Since this was my first red wine pour I would have to say that I was definitely biased. I am not sure if it was fair of me to judge this wine at that time since I had been drinking white wine for a good part of the previous hour. I took a small break and came back to the table and had another taste. Yes, I still liked it so thumbs up it was!
Official Tasting notes: Pretty aromas of red currant and black cherry mingle with black fruits with a touch of earthy, cured meat aromas that frame the wild berry flavors and toasty oak on the palate.
Cabernet Sauvignon
The next pour was this red before we dove into the reserve wines. The color was nice and it was a lovely “light” red wine. I prefer my reds bolder and with a much bigger bang. I believe that someone who is not a big red wine drinker would like this.
Official Tasting notes: Intense aromas of black plum, cassis and green olive with a spicy bouquet of cigar box, cinnamon and nutmeg.
Reserve Wines:
Chardonnay, Bien Nacido
I had actually tasted this reserve wine when I tasted the other white wines. I tasted this with gusto since I had had a good experience with the other whites. I am not sure if it was timing (your palate changes throughout the day) or if I was just ready to jump to the reds, but if I had to pick a Chardonnay I would have picked the previous one.
Official Tasting notes: An elegant dry wine, with toasty vanilla and peach aromas and fruity flavors of pear and tropical fruit.
Pinot Noir
My second red pour was this Pinot Noir with the grapes coming from the Anderson Valley. Again, I am usually a big, bold red wine drinker so this Pinot was a little light for me, but I liked the flavor and could see myself drinking this on occasion.
Official Tasting notes: Not available; you must try it for yourself!
La Castellana (The Lady of the Castle) – Super Tuscan Blend
When this wine was poured I loved the color and smell of this wine. I was very impressed with this choice, it had a full bodied taste and I could see myself drinking this with a Filet Mignon dinner.
Official Tasting notes: La Castellana (The Lady of the Castle) is an elegant, complex wine, with good depth, volume and balanced with very velvety tannins providing length and a smooth, lingering texture.
Il Barone Cabernet Sauvignon
After just having tasted the “Lady of the Castle” I was very excited to taste their Reserve Cabernet. I have to say I liked it, but found myself thinking that La Castellana was my top pick for the day. When I told this to Pat, he said he was not surprised since Il Barone will get better with age and La Castellana is great now. I am definitely one of those people who buys for today and not to lay down for tomorrow – so The Lady gets my top vote!
Official Tasting notes: A very flavorful, elegant and structured red wine in the style of high-quality.
Castello di Amorosa combines traditional wine making methods with technologically advanced wine making equipment and techniques. As a result, the wines show intense flavors which are eloquently balanced and similar to the hand-crafted wines produced in central Tuscany and Umbria regions of Italy- the homeland of Dario Sattui, who is fourth-generation Italian.
All of their red grapes are grown in the Napa Valley around the Castle. White grapes are grown in the Carneros district of the Napa Valley or in the Anderson Valley, as both of these cool areas are ideal for white wine grapes. Some grapes are also purchased from select growers.
Brooks Painter, a veteran winemaker of more than 30 years, along with Associate Winemaker, Peter Velleno and famous Italian winemaker, Sebastiano Rosa, presides over all winemaking production. His goal is to make delicious, classically structured, intensely flavored, well-balanced, elegant wines which showcase the terroir of each unique vineyard site.
You can tour the authentically-styled, 13th century, Tuscan castle and winery led by a knowledgeable guide. All tours feature a barrel tasting and include a complimentary tasting of our current releases. Tours are approximately 1-3/4 hours in length. The walking portion of your tour is approximately 60 minutes followed by a 45 minute private tasting of their handcrafted Italian-style wines. Reservations are highly suggested. You may place those reservations by calling (707) 967-6272 or going directly to their website at www.castellodiAmorosa.com.
There are also various wine clubs you can join that customize your wine needs and also meet other castle aficionados at their wine club events.
Castello di Amorosa Winery is located off of HWY CA-29 in the northern part of Napa Valley, between St. Helena and Calistoga. Castello di Amorosa is not visible from the roadway – please look for their sign and for the address 4045 North Saint Helena Highway, Calistoga, CA 94515.
Deanna Baillie and Ben, her Australian Shepherd, love going wine tasting. On their trip to Castello di Amorosa, they made many new friends. They invite you to keep up with them on their blog at localhappeningsmagazine.com.
Napa Valley, internationally famous for grape fermentation, is filled to the brim with wineries, making it far easier for the wine connoisseur to find quality wines than it is for the winemakers to separate themselves from the pack. But those who travel up St. Helena’s Spring Mountain to a small, family-owned winery called Charbay, are greeted by something that can’t be found elsewhere in the Napa Valley.
Charbay is home to Napa Valley’s sole winery/distillery, meaning they’re the only Napa area winery that uses self-produced brandies in their fortified wines. These brandies are hand distilled, and visitors to Charbay can come get a firsthand look at how they’re produced. Most impressive, though, is the family behind Charbay—the Karakasevics—and the scope of their legacy in the world of spirits. Miles Karakasevic, who founded Charbay in 1983 with his wife Susan, didn’t exactly stumble into the wine business. He’s a 12th generation winemaker and distiller, and his family has been producers of alcohol for centuries. Miles has been around stills and wineries for as long as he can remember, and he speaks of fermenting and distilling with the passion of an artist. Though Charbay has become a success, Miles says the money aspect of the winery and distillery has always been secondary to him.
“This is not a business. This is a way of expressing ourselves and making a living the way we’ve done for more than 300 years,” Miles said. “If I was a shoemaker, I would be making custom shoes for your feet. I don’t; I make custom spirits for you to drink.”
There are two different sets of federal laws regarding the production of wine and distilled spirits respectively, and similarly, Charbay is split into two locations: first there’s the Domaine Charbay distillery located in Ukiah where most of Charbay’s products, including their vodka, rum and whisky, are produced. Then there’s their winery in St. Helena, equipped with a smaller alembic pot still that’s used only to distill wine into brandy, which is then used in the production of ports, aperitifs and dessert wines. The St. Helena winery and distillery, affectionately known by the Karakasevic family as the Still on the Hill, is one of very few wineries that has its own still for fortified wines. Most other wineries have to buy their brandy from an outside source, and this gives Charbay’s products a leg up on quality.
Not that they needed the help. The Karakasevic family legacy as winemakers and distillers stretches back to before the signing of the US Constitution, and they’ve been refining their techniques since then. Most recently, in 2009, Miles’ son Marko was given the title of Master Distiller, after a 26-year apprenticeship, which began when Marko was 10.
“I was small enough to fit inside the still and be able to clean it. That’s where I started,” Marko said of his beginnings in the family business. “I would go to the distillery after school and work with my dad.”
In the Karakasevic family, one earns the title of Master Distiller by proving they can produce spirits that are equal to or better in quality than those of their mentor. By doing that, Marko has ensured that the Karakasevic legacy will extend for at least 13 generations of winemakers and distillers. It also serves as a symbol of Charbay’s footing in the Napa Valley—Marko is the first Karakasevic whose apprenticeship began and ended in the United States.
“In Europe, in the old days, you stuck with your profession,” Miles said. “I’m the first person to leave the village where I was born and where 11 of my grandfathers are buried.”
Miles, a former citizen of then-Yugoslavia, came to North America in 1962, first arriving in Canada and eventually making his way to Northern California. There he worked for various wineries in the area and also did some consulting work in the Mendocino area where Charbay would later establish a distillery. The whole time he kept the goal of starting his own winery and distillery in the back of his mind.
“When I came here, I realized I’d have to learn to think the way Americans do if I’m going to survive,” Miles said. “It took me 10 years to achieve that. It’s hard to comprehend the differences in culture, coming from one society to another.”
Thanks to those efforts Charbay is now an established success, and it hasn’t been difficult for the Karakasevic family to maintain their legacy as alcohol producers. Marko’s upbringing in fermentation and distilling was a seemingly natural process; an indication that the cultural differences Miles referred to weren’t enough to discontinue the Karakasevic family’s tenure.
“As soon as Marko was crawling and walking, he was in the winery. So there is nothing new,” said Miles, whose own upbringing was similar. “The location, and the size—those things have obviously changed. But fundamentally, nothing has changed.”
Now, Marko and his wife, Jenni, will have a chance to raise their own son in the midst of the Still on the Hill. In 2011, they welcomed a baby boy to the world, naming him Miles (he’s often referred to as Little Miles). Big Miles isn’t going to force his own lifestyle upon his grandson, but the odds seem to be in the Karakasevic’s favor to add a 14th generation of winemakers and distillers into their already extensive genealogical line.
“Little Miles has been bred; he has that fermentation and distillation in his genes and in his blood,” Miles said. “I believe that he will continue, but I won’t be here to see that. That will be up to himself and his father to decide what they want to do in their lives.”
Since its establishment, Charbay has worked to diversify its products. Miles describes himself as an impatient man, which at face value doesn’t seem like a good quality for someone who makes something that often needs to be aged for many years—sometimes even a decade or more. But Miles’ self-proclaimed impatience has actually helped Charbay’s expansion.
“If I was making only cabernet or sauvignon it would drive me nuts, no matter how great that wine is going to be,” Miles said. “Our power is difference in the repertoire. What is important is that Charbay products have that clean, long finish. But we go out of our way to create difference from one release to another.”
Between Charbay’s two locations, the winery & distillery now makes more than 25 different products, comprised of wines, ports and distilled spirits, each with a unique taste and different components. They produce differently flavored vodkas, including green tea, and they’ve even released a clear whiskey. All this allows the Karakasevic family to be creative and keep things exciting.
“This is a brutal business, regulated and dominated by gigantic corporations. If you’re going to continue a family-size business, then you have no choice but to make the best quality possible,” Marko said. “And I’m totally happy with that. It’s super rewarding when people taste products and they freak out and go, ‘Oh my God, this is fantastic!’ That’s what it’s all about.”
Nate Gartrell grew up in Benicia, studied journalism in college, and has written for a handful of media outlets since age 15. He aspires to visit all 30 Major League Baseball stadiums and to hit the trifecta at the horse track.
What’s Growing Out Back? Lamorinda’s Uniquely Local Wines
As you drive along Highway 24 past the East Bay suburbs of Lafayette and Orinda, if you look closely (and quickly) on the north-side of the freeway you will spot a couple of small grape vineyards nestled in the hills. Exit the highway and take either of the main arteries—Moraga Road or Moraga Way—until they intersect and you will find another vineyard perched on a ridge overlooking Moraga’s central shopping district. Over 100 vineyards dot the landscape throughout Lamorinda— the amalgamation of the Contra Costa County cities of Lafayette, Moraga, and Orinda. Yet most of the suburbs’ vineyards are hidden from view from the passing car, tucked away in back on the sloping hills that define the area’s terrain.
While much of Lamorinda’s suburban space is already developed and other green space protected, many residential properties have hillside areas, from an eighth of an acre to a couple of acres in size, suitable for growing grapevines and little else. These are not the vast vineyards of Napa and Sonoma. Lamorinda’s grapes are growing right in residents’ backyards. “That is what makes our winegrowers so intriguing,” says Susan Captain, President of the Lamorinda Winegrowers Association. “We are suburban farmers.”
You can catch a glimpse of Bill Scanlin’s vineyard from the BART station in Lafayette. He planted the 585, mostly cabernet, vines that traverse his backyard 14 years ago. “We have a southern exposure and I thought the vines would help control the weeds and erosion and provide a nice backdrop,” says Scanlin. Known as Deerhill Vineyards, aptly named given the deer that often graze the empty lot just outside his fenced yard, Scanlin’s grape crop fills three large oak barrels in a good harvest, enough for 900 bottles of wine.
Scanlin makes his own wine, managing the entire process from picking and crushing the grapes to fermenting and bottling the wine. Along the way he has taken over parts of the family’s rec room and garage to house the operation. In 2009, Deerhill Vineyards became a bonded winery, which enables Scanlin to sell his wine. “Using my own locally-grown grapes is what makes the winemaking interesting for me,” says Scanlin. “We became a bonded winery with the aim to offset some of the costs of my interest,” he adds smiling.
Lamorinda’s history of winegrowing—cultivating grapes and producing wine—dates back over 125 years. Those old vines are long gone, but there has been a resurgence in winegrowing over the past decade. Susan Captain and her husband Sal, who own and operate the commercial winery Captain Vineyards in Moraga, attended the first gathering of the Lamorinda Winegrowers Association (“LWGA”) back in 2005 when they were just getting established as vintners. “There were about 15 growers there,” says Susan, “And we were really excited about the uniqueness of locally-grown and produced wine from Lamorinda.” As word spread, more and more vineyards started popping up in the area, and today the not-for-profit LWGA has 75 members.
Most of Lamorinda’s winegrowers are oenophiles with a hobby. They grow grapes and make wine for their own consumption and to share with friends. Without the demands of a commercial venture, they are free to grow the grapes they want to make the wine they like.
Tom Morehouse’s vineyard in Orinda has 208 vines split among three varieties: ½ syrah, ¼ mourvedre, and ¼ grenache, so he can make a southern Rhone-style blend, a light red that he finds pairs well with many dishes. The grapes make a winning combination, but his suburban vineyard has its challenges. “The ideal location for a vineyard is a southern exposure,” says Morehouse, “Mine faces north. But my house is where my house is.” While he might prefer a bit more sun, Morehouse produces wine that both he and many friends enjoy.
As grape growing and wine making has found its niche in Lamorinda, the growers have formed a loose network and often collaborate. The 300 vines in Mary Leigh Miller’s backyard in Moraga abut directly with her neighbor’s similar-sized vineyard up the hill. The neighbors work together and recruit friends and other growers to help with the harvest. Miller combines her sangiovese grapes with the cabernet and syrah grapes from another vineyard in Lafayette and outsources the wine production to an Orinda-based vintner. The end product according to Miller is a “super Tuscan”.
“From the outset our mission has been to support each other to grow the best grapes and make the best wine that we can,” says Susan Captain. The area’s temperate climate with cool evenings and hot summer days, less foggy, wet and cold than its neighbors on the west side of the Caldecott Tunnel, is just right for a number of grape varietals, particularly reds. The heavy clay soil and sandstone base drains well due to the steep hillsides, and there is limited risk of frost or early rains, which provides a long growing season for the red grapes that prefer an extended time on the vine. “Our wines have a distinct taste because of our unique location and climate,” adds Captain. To further establish the area as a distinct winegrowing region, the LWGA is working toward Lamorinda’s designation as an American Viticultural Area “AVA”.
“It’s all about quality, I want to make wine of really great quality,” says Paul Coletta, one of Lamorinda’s newest winegrowers. So when he decided to add a vineyard to his Orinda property, he did his homework. Before choosing what varieties to plant, he carefully analyzed the climate patterns and had the soil tested. Paul is an expert on food branding and serves on the Executive Board of the Robert Mondavi Institute for Wine and Food Science at U.C. Davis, so he also tapped his colleagues to help him choose the best grapes to grow in his vineyard. Coletta lives on a semi-circular ridge, which creates a warm, sunny buffer for his 500 syrah and viognier grapevines. The first bottle of this classic northern Rhone blend from Coletta’s Humblebee Vineyard will be ready to drink in the spring of next year.
A nascent cottage industry has begun to emerge as winegrowing has taken root in Lamorinda. Today, there are six commercial wineries in the area that sell their wines online and at local wine stores and restaurants. But the volume of wine produced is limited. The maximum capacity of the two largest bonded wineries, both located in Moraga, is about 1,000 cases each, a tiny fraction of what commercial wineries in northern wine country produce. Huge profit is not the goal. Winegrowers in Lamorinda who have commercialized their ventures aim to cover their costs and then enjoy their uniquely, local wine.
“Lamorinda is the perfect location for a boutique winegrowing region,” says Dave Parker who runs the bonded winery Parkmon Vineyards with his wife Shari from his home in Moraga. “The goal has never been to become another Napa,” says Parker. “The vision is to produce hand-crafted, artisan wines,” says Shari, finishing his thought. “It’s a co-op concept. It fits the local culture.”
Lamorinda Wines—Judges Take Notice
“Contra Costa County may not be as well known for winegrowing as some of the other regions in the area like Napa, Solano or Medocino, but there are many places in this county well-suited to produce high-quality grapes and world-class wines” says Dave Parker the owner of Parkmon Vineyards in Moraga.
Already several wines from Lamorinda have been recognized at club and regional wine competitions. The wines from Parkmon Vineyards have medalled each year for the past four years in the San Francisco Chronicle Wine Competition. Most recently Parkmon’s 2008 Sangiovese won Best of Show in the Contra Costa Winegrowers Commercial Wine Competition.
“We were excited to enter our wines in this competition which was exclusive to varietals grown in Contra Costa County,” says Parker. Parkmon’s Sangiovese grapes were sourced from Koelmel Vineyard in Lafayette, one of the older vineyards in Lamorinda, established about 15 years ago. Parkmon’s 2008 Petitie Verdot also won a gold medal in the competition and several other wines from the winery received silver and bronze medals. Parker is very pleased with the recognition his wines received and hopes this will help spread the word about Lamorinda’s wines. “We are a small close-knit winegrowing community, and we support and promote each other,” says Parker, “I think that is how most successful winegrowing regions get started.”
Andrea Firth is a freelance writer based in Moraga with her husband, two teens, and a dog named Pepsi.
Robledo Winery
I am a definite believer in destiny; I believe things happen for a reason. A few months ago I was not really happy with the pick I had made for our next wine story. I felt the winery was too big – not who we normally connect with. I had made the calls and was waiting for confirmation for interview times when I went to an industry event. I was tired that day as I remember and almost did not go since the event was in Napa and I had been at appointments in Lafayette. Something made me go and, as I made the obligatory rounds, I was really thinking of heading to the bar to get a drink. An hour later, I finally arrived at my true destination – a very comfortable lounge chair. Within a few minutes a group walked in and sat next to me and, as we started the introductions, I met a young gentleman named Luis Robledo. Over the next hour I was able to get to know Luis and learn about his family winery, Robledo Winery. Things happen for a reason!
The next day, since the interview dates still could not get confirmed, I told the other winery I had to move on. Oh well! I truly felt I was meant to meet Luis so I could have a chance to tell this true, rags-to-riches story. This is a story about life, family, love and a passion for the vines.
Having read their story before, I was very familiar with the fact that the Robledo patriarch, Reynaldo Robledo, Sr., had come to this country as a poor immigrant and had worked hard in the field, saving every penny he could to buy land on which to grow his own vines one day.
This story starts in 1968 when Reynaldo first came to the states at age 16 to find work to support his family. He started working in Calistoga pruning grapes, prunes and pears. He went on to work at several wineries and learned the trade but, more than that, came to love the gnarly vines and sweet fruit that came with them.
“I started working for $1.10 an hour in the valley and from the very first moment I loved it.” Reynaldo stated. “Once I learned how to prune a vine, it was love, and I spent the next three decades pruning and learning the business and eventually managing hundreds of acres.”
“I wanted to know everything about grapes,” he recalls. Within eight months, the teenager was in charge of 36 workers, including his own father. “I worked long, long hours learning everything.” He spent many evening hours teaching himself to drive unfamiliar farm machinery. He learned about pruning and grafting, about the April bugs and the May fungus, about cutting costs by doing everything at the right time. He took courses at University of California, Davis but says being in the vineyards was the best education.
“Working in the field is the way you learn. I know from the leaves what fertilizers and chemicals they need. I need to look at the soil. I don’t need a computer on every plant.”
“I evaluate each plant before I prune. The plant has its own energy, and you have to leave enough canes to use that energy. Some people don’t understand that if a plant is fifteen years old, it has a lot of strength, and they cut back too much.” Reynaldo explains.
When Reynaldo and his wife Maria came to the states they had no idea what was in store for them – nor did they know at that time they would eventually be the parents of nine children! They had produced their own management company without knowing it. Through the years Reynaldo and Maria saved every penny and were able to buy 14 vineyards totaling over 300 acres in Napa, Sonoma and Lake County. Most of their fruit is sold to other wineries but today they produce their own estate wines. Each of his parcels is named for his family – Rancho Maria for his wife, Rancho La Familia for all of his children, Rancho Emiliano for his youngest son. “For me, the important thing is that I can train my family and that they want to stay in the business.”
Today, seven of his nine children hold the reins of the winery’s future. Rey Jr. produces Robledo’s award-winning olive oil. Everado is winemaker and handles daily winery operations. Jenaro is vineyard manager. Francisco handles quality control, which includes monitoring the cellar to ensure smooth operations. Luis, Francisco’s twin brother, is Robledo’s sales representative, working directly with restaurants and distributors. (When not meeting magazine publishers in bars!) Lazaro manages both tasting rooms and handles winery events. The youngest, Emiliano, works at the winery while finishing his schooling.
Since 2002 the Robledo family has been honoring each other and their hard work by designating one vintage of their Napa Valley Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon to a Robledo family member – a living tribute that shows love, pride and respect for each other.
Robledo Winery offers quite a palate of red and white wines and released a sparkling wine this year. Their Sonoma tasting room is covered in ribbons and medals that their wines have been awarded.
The Sonoma Tasting Room also doubles as an event center. They have a huge outdoor space that is warm and welcoming with tile floors and vines surrounding the patio which gives color all year. This is where they hold all of their wine club events and summer barbecues, of which there are many. Weddings are picturesque here with the spectacular views of the Sonoma-Carneros Mountains and vineyards.
As with most small family wineries, you must make an appointment for tastings. The Sonoma Tasting room, located at 21901 Bonness Road, and the Lake County tasting room, located at 2040 Soda Bay Road in Lakeport, are open Friday-Saturday 10 am to 5 pm and Sunday 11 am to 4 pm. You may also visit their website at www.robledofamilywinery.com. Be sure to tell them that you heard they were a “Local Happening”!
The Wines:
2008 ChardonnaWiney, Los Carneros Gold Medal Winner!!! $38.00
Gold Medal Winner – 2011 Ensenada Tierra del Vino International Wine Competition.
Tasting notes: A rich golden topaz color. Aromas of orange blossom, jasmine and vanilla bean. A rich, smooth mouth feel with lush fruitiness. Finishes with a crisp acidity.
2009 “Seven Brothers” Sauvignon Blanc, Lake County Gold Medal Winner!!! $22.00
Gold Medal Winner – 2011 Pacific Coast Oyster and Wine Competition.
Tasting notes: Grapefruit and herbal notes turn to melon and ripe passion fruit on the mid-palate. Aromas of honeysuckle and mango. Concentrated with green tea and citrus. Rich and complex with a tang of lemongrass.
2010 Pinot Blanc, Lake County $22.00
Appearance: A beautiful pale golden yellow. Aroma and bouquet: infused with aromas of ripe melon and sweet honey. Approach: lush melon flavors with a hints of honey and vanilla. Finish: soft, well-balanced finish
2010 Pinot Grigio, Lake County $25.00
Appearance: Pale yellow straw color. Aroma and bouquet: aromas of apple and ripe pear. Approach: spice with a hint of vanilla and honey. Finish: structured with hints of citrus and a touch of mineral.
2008 Cuvée Brut, Los Carneros Gold Medal Winner!!! $40.00
Gold Medal and Best of Class – 2011 LA International Wine Competition Gold Medal – 2011 West Coast Wine Competition Gold Medal – 2011 California State Fair Gold Medal – 2011 Ensenada Tierra del Vino International Wine Competition.
The Robledo family has been growing Pinot Noir and Chardonnay grapes in the Sonoma and Napa Carneros Appellation since 1984. They are very excited to introduce their first sparkling wine! The 2008 “Los Carneros Cuvée” is a blend of 60% Pinot Noir and 40% Chardonnay grapes. It is a lively wine with aromas and flavors of fresh apple and ripe pear. Each bottle is a celebration and they hope you enjoy it with friends and family! Salud!!
2008 Pinot Noir, Los Carneros $40.00
Double Gold – 2011 American Fine Wine Competition Appearance: a rich red ruby color. Aroma and bouquet: cherry and rose petals, anise and white pepper. Approach: medium-bodied with delicate plum and blackberry flavors with a hint of smokiness. Finish: lingering finish with bright acidity and a touch of toasted walnuts and oak.
2008 Petite Sirah, Lake County New Release! $28.00
Appearance: A beautiful, deep, rich burgundy color. Aroma and bouquet: rich characters of black cherry and mocha. Approach: full bodied, but not overpowering. Finish: lingering finish of big fruit.
2008 Barbera, Lake County $30.00
Tasting notes: This 2008 vintage is soft, ripe and fruit forward. Hints of ripe cherry, blackberry and spice. An overall elegant wine with a long finish.
2009 Tempranillo, Lake County New Release! $26.00
Tasting notes: A deep, rich, ruby color with aromas of spicy cherry and layers of blackberry, cracked pepper and a hint of toasty vanilla. A defined richness and acidity gives it a nicely balanced mouth feel.
2008 Zinfandel, Lake County $30.00
Tasting notes: Super ripe plum with spice and cedar. Jammy with layers of toasty. Vanilla and sweet oak flavors balance between ripe fruit and fleshy tannins. Finishes big but not hot. A very likeable Zin!
2006 “Los Braceros” Red Blend, Sonoma Valley Gold Medal Winner! $30.00
Gold Medal and Best of Class – 2010 West Coast Wine Competition Fair
Appearance: clear, bright red garnet color. Aroma and bouquet: aromas of black currant, ripe plum with a hint of tobacco. Approach: rich flavors of ripe black fruit and cedar. Finish: a medium-bodied wine with a spicy pepper finish. Blend of: Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Syrah (33.3% of each).
2006 “El Rey” Cabernet Sauvignon Double Gold Medal Winner!!! $38.00
Double Gold – 2011 American Fine Wine Competition. Gold – 2010 California State Fair Gold – 2010 Ensenada Tierra Del Vino International. Appearance: clear bright red garnet color. Aroma and bouquet: aromas of black currant, ripe plum with a hint of tobacco. Approach: rich flavors of ripe black fruit and cedar. Finish: a medium-bodied wine with a spicy pepper finish.
2009 Merlot, Los Carneros New Release! $38.00
Appearance: a deep, rich cranberry. Aroma and bouquet: aromas of ripe blueberries, anise, clove and sweet oak. Approach: rich flavors of blackberry, strawberry and plum. Finish: a full-bodied wine with smooth, well balanced tannins and hints of clove, leather and tobacco.
2005 Syrah, Napa Valley Limited Release! $60.00
Appearance: clear, bright red garnet color. Aroma and bouquet: Aromas of black currant, ripe plum. Approach: rich flavors of ripe black fruit and cedar. Finish: a medium-bodied wine with a spicy pepper finish.
2003 Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley-2nd Collector’s Edition $150.00
Appearance: a beautiful, deep pomegranate color. Aroma and bouquet: black cherry, chocolate mint, tobacco. Approach: dried plums, figs with black cherry. Finish: full bodied wine with spice, toasted vanilla and cedar.
2004 Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley -3rd Collector’s Edition $125.00
Tasting notes: This robust red wine is seductively luxuriant with a velvety, silky full and even mouth feel. Lush aromas of blackberry, cassis and cranberry are framed by layers of spicy oak, cinnamon, coffee and tobacco. On the palate the round, elegant tannins cradle lingering nuances of a perfectly ripe raspberry, candied plum, sweet maple sugar, dark mocha and toasted vanilla.
2005 Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley-4th Collector’s Edition $100.00
Tasting Notes: This robust, red wine is mouth coating and full bodied, elegant and lush. Deep aromas of ripe blackberry, cherry and cassis are framed by layers of sweet and spicy oak, exotic spices, smoky vanilla and cocoa. On the palate, the firm but round tannins balance the ripe fruit notes, espresso and sweet oak flavors. Finishes with big, broad, fine-grained tannins and impressive length.
2006 Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley – 5th Collector’s Edition $80.00
Tasting Notes: Bold and opulent with riveting aromas of ripe black cherries, plums and generous hints of exotic spices. Aromas are complex, offering notes of vanilla, mocha, cassis and cedar in this perfectly structured wine. Full bodied and deftly balanced. The finish is silky smooth in this complex and age-worthy Cabernet.
2007 Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley-6th Collector’s Edition $80.00
Tasting Notes: The nose begins with rich, dark fruit and subtle hints of chocolate and toasted oak. On the palate, an elegant yet full-bodied explosion of dark, luscious cherry and velvety black currant integrated with soft tannins that give way to a concentrated, complex and rewarding finish.
2008 Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley-7th Collector’s Edition New Release! $80.00
Tasting Notes: An intense, deeply colored wine of concentrated aromas and flavors. Bright black cherries lead the charge, followed by dusty cocoa and roasting coffee beans. Dense texture and a fine sense of balance enhance the pleasing aromatics of blackberry, currants, vanilla bean and dark chocolate.
As you speak to each of the sons you feel the pride and love for their family’s heritage. With so much history, what does the future hold for Robledo Winery? 19 grandchildren – just imagine!
Deanna Baillie loves good wine and great conversation – but her family and Ben, her Australian Shepherd, always come first. Here she shares a glass of wine with Regina and Robert.
Anand Patel is the President/CEO of the Fairfield Conference & Visitors Bureau, the official destination marketing organization for Fairfield, California.– 
